use of coriander essential oil

I'm thinking of using coriander essential oil instead of crushed coriander seed for my Belgian Witbier. The problem is to find the sweet ratio. What I want is just subtle note of coriander aroma but the essential oil definitely super condensed. 

Replicating cold infusion environment, I put a single drop of the oil into varying amount of cold water (room temperature =24c). Below is the result of my sensory experiment. Assuming that one drop of essential oil is 0.05 ml. Aroma and Flavor points are in a range of 0 to 9. 

Ratio (water ml)	Aroma	Flavor
0.2% (25ml)	8	8
0.05% (100ml)	7	6
0.025% (200ml)	6.5	5
0.0125% (400ml)	5.5	3
0.0005% (1000ml)	2.5	1

I found 1 drop for 1L water is what I desired. Which means, I need only 12 drops of essential oil (0.6ml) for my 120L batch of beer. This oil is monster!

캐나다에서 홈브루잉 시작

나이아가라 컬리지에서 맥주 공부를 시작한지도 2학기째다. 2학기 들어서 좀 정신이 들어서 홈브루잉을 개시하기로 했다. 첫학기때 살던 홈스테이집에서는 성미 고약한 집주인이 부엌도 못쓰게 하고 물세도 잔소리를 너무 해서 어차피 홈브루잉은 꿈도 못꿀 처지였었다.

내가 홈브루잉을 할때 매번 참고하는 사이트를 소개하려고 한다.

레시피는 BrewersFriend에 사람들이 올려놓은 걸 보고 고쳐서 쓴다. extract 레시피를 따로 검색할 수 있어서 편하다. 수수보리에서 홈브루잉 배울때 강사분이 Brewtoad라고 비슷한 사이트를 가르쳐주셨는데 아쉽게도 그 사이트는 몇달전 사라졌다.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/search/

레시피에 쓰여있는 홉을 구하지 못할 때도 있다. 그럴땐 비슷한 홉을 찾아 수정할 수 있도록 아래 사이트를 참고한다.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/how-to-brew/hop-substitutions/

맥주학과 학생은 학교에서 홈브루잉용 몰트를 마음대로 가져다 쓸수 있다. 베이스 몰트는 빼고! (그랬다면 정말 꿀이었겠지만) 대부분의 스페셜티 몰트를 학교에서 구할 수 있지만 역시 특정한 몰트를 구할 수 없을때는 아래 사이트를 참고해 수정한다.

https://www.thehopandgrain.com.au/malt-substitution-chart/
https://www.brew.is/files/malt.html

프라이밍 계산기도 BrewersFriend에서 제공하는 온라인 계산기를 쓰고 있다. 고맙게도 메트릭을 제공한다... 캐나다는 공식적으로는 메트릭 단위를 쓰지만 미국 영향을 크게 받은 맥주계에서는 너무 흔히들 배럴, 갤런, 파운드, 온스, 그리고 섭씨를 쓴다. 나는 아직 느낌 못 잡았다.

https://www.brewersfriend.com/beer-priming-calculator/

장비는 같은 반 친구가 추천한 아래 사이트에서 샀다. 백달러 어치를 사면 무료배송을 해준다. 안 그러면 기본옵션인 페덱스 그라운드 배송비가 한국돈으로 만원도 넘게 나온다.

https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/Default.asp

곡물 쓰레기 걱정 때문에 어차피 extract 양조할 거니까 케틀, 플라스틱 퍼멘터, 오토 사이펀으로 구성된 가장 저렴한 세트를 샀고 내가 따로 산 장비는 2리터들이 저그랑 4리터들이 버켓 정도다. 첫번째 양조해보고 겨울인데도 칠링 시간이 너무 걸려서 최근에 pre-chillier 하나 더 샀다. pre-chiller는 결국 immersion chiller인데 사이즈가 좀 작은 보조 칠러다. 나는 최대로 해봐야 5갤런 양조하니까 그만한 사이즈로도 충분하다. 더 이상 베란다에서 오들오들 떨면서 하염없이 월풀링하지 않아도 된다...

첫번째 양조로는 심플한 레시피로 블론드 에일을 만들었다. 시트라, 캐스케이드를 월풀에만 추가하고 레몬드롭을 드라이호핑했다. 쓴맛은 적고 가벼운 새콤함이 느껴지는 마시기 좋은 맥주다. 소량 첨가한 벨지안 비스킷 몰트가 구운 빵껍질 같은 구수함을 느끼게 해준다. 크리미한 질감의 하얀 거품이 잘 구현되어 만족스러웠다. 나 자신부터 extract 양조에 대한 편견이 조금 있었는데 이것저것 열심히 시도해서 아무도 extract 양조인지 모르게 만드는게 목표다. 하하!

마침 이번주에 탄산화가 완료되어 사진을 찍었다.

Cheers!

Fining agents

Cause of haze, cloudness

• tannins: barley grain husk
• proteins: dark grain and non-barley grains(oat, wheat, flaked barley)
• yeast: too many strains, before precipitate

Case and how to fix

unsettled yeast

• enough time for secondary ferment
• forced carbonation because priming sugar increase yeast
• repitch yeast with high flocculation(Wyeast 1099 Whitbread Ale)

chill haze(from protein, polyphenols)

• use protein rest when mashing
• lager enough time

starches(from poor mashing, sparging technique)

• watch mash temperature
• do not disturb grain bed during sparging

Fining agents

Irish moss

• effective to chill haze
• 5ml(1tsp)/5gal 
• last 10~20min of the boiling

Whirlfloc tablets

• 1tablet/5gal
• last 10min of the boil

Child guard

• 2.5ml+1/2 cup of hot water/5gal
• into fermenter a few days before bottling

Gelatin/Isinglass

• 5ml+1cup of hot water/5gal
• into fermenter 4~5 days before bottling

Polycar,Betonite (good for fixing chill haze)/Sparkolloid(good for fixing yeast)

• 30ml(2 table spoon)+1cup of warm water/5gal  
• into fermenter 4~5 days before bottling

Other clarfying tips

• select low protein grains(eg. 2 row pale malt, pale malt extract)
• cool wort quickly: in less than 15mins/5gal
• yeast with high flocculation
• cold store(lager) *note: when naturally carbonating, wait until fully carbonated than largering 

source

http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/12/30/fining-agents-improving-beer-clarity/
http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/03/26/6-tips-for-crystal-clear-home-brewed-beer/
http://www.picobrewery.com/askarchive/clarifiers.htm

Imaginary home brewing: useful app Brewpal

Before I came to Canada, I gave my home brewing gadgets to my friend. I live in Welland, ON now and there is no DIY shop or home brewing club at walking distance. One of my home brewing fellow, who is in EAP just like me, recommended me to use this app, Brewpal.

As you see above, 3 kinds of beer are fermenting now... as it's an imaginary home brewing, which will produce imaginary beers, though.  

The beauty of this app is that it helps you to be familiar with each beer style. For example, this is my recipe for American IPA. 

You can use any ingredient you want without scary receipts!

Based on ingredients you chose, the app shows you how accurate your recipe will me match with the BJCP style guide. Though my IPA recipe has a bit booze, it will be a nice Amerian IPA. 

I bought this app with $1.99 in the app store. It's worth to buy.  

All grain brewing workshop @ Ihop workshop

recipe: 

American IPA

pilsner malt 4.5kg

cara red 500g

cascade 28g @60

cascade 28g @10

Mosaic 56g @1

safare-US05

60min mashing at 68'c, mash out at 78'c

HLT/BK(left), MLT(right)

hop bazooka screen(filter) in MLT

in comparison of hop strainer

mashing... 

sparging(water weight=3*grist) and lautering

first wort 7L+lautering 16L=23L-vaporization 2L=20~21L

(sparging water 20L and bickers was 2L each)

changing a whole HLT/BK third time then found the wort clear.

no pH check during sparging... could be better if we're equipped to do that.

no whirlpooling(paddling) before chilling either. used an immersion chiller.

need 2 males strength to get BK upside down, pouring chilled wort to the FV.

aeration with paddling and pitched yeasts! 

2 weeks later...

slight sourness detected at first(due to high temperature in the fermenting room),

but the sourness dismissed after a week of lagering.

Brewing summer saison!

adding hops at the beginning of boiling prevents kettle from boil over. 

prepare a pan to dissolve sugar to make candi sugar(right side).

making candi sugar is tough!

it's hard to crazy keep temperature in a right range(127~135'c) with a domestic burner. 

dissolved sugar went dark after 20 minutes of struggle...

it's not a stout. what you look at is a saison.

coriander seeds are floating on the surface.

....where is my Saison going? 

pH stories

Here is a fun article about making 'glowing sushi' with a glowing protein, called GFP.

article

ok, then what about the glowing beer? Is it possible to brew the glowing beer with the yeast where GFP can be activated? According to the article, the answer is no. Because the glowing protein actually is dependent on pH conditions, and a majority of target pH of finish products is below pH 3~4 where there is no way to activate for GFP.
Then, why does pH condition go down during beer fermentation? I googled.

1.
(from there)
Fermentation is the oxidation of organic carbohydrates(means starch) under anaerobic(means no oxygen) conditions.  The classic example is the fermentation of sugars into ethanol and carbon dioxide utilizing yeast for beer and wine production. During this process, CO2 is released into the air in the form of gas bubbles.  But much CO2 is also dissolved in the water solution.  CO2 dissolved in water produces carbonic acid (H2CO3) in small quantities according to the equation below:

H2O + CO2 --> H2CO3

Carbonic acid is a weak acid that will lower the pH slightly.  So this is why the pH changes slightly during fermentation.

2.
(from there)
Substantial factor:

• Organic acid excreation(means separated from a bigger body)
• Absorption of basic amino acid(basic blocks that comprise proteins, from malted grains*)

Less extent factor:

• Solution of carbon dioxide
• Absorption of primary phosphate(PO3-4)

* leave it for smarter future me... 

What is free amino nitrogen(FAN) link

amino acid link

3.

(from there)

• pH affects the shape of proteins.
• (If pH is increased, this affects the shape of proteins, by disrupting bonds in the protein.)
• Enzymes are responsible for the metabolic processes that occur. 
• Enzymes are proteins. 
• Enzymes work best in acidic condition, when pH is lower, which bend the protein into the correct shape to allow fermentation to occur. 

conclusion: lower pH is good for your wort. 

4.

and the good basic lesson about pH for homebrewers is here

leave it for the future me, too.

Yeast cells take in ammonium ions (which are strongly basic, similar to alkaline) and excrete organic acids (including lactic acid)

How to make Belgian Candi sugar

Summer breeze comes along with recent days. It's the perfect time for brewing refreshing saison. A whole new process appears with making the style, which is adding Belgian candi sugar as a body thinner.

Step 1.
Weigh and dissolve the sugar in the pan, and place the pan over medium-high heat.

Step 2.
When the sugar starts to bubble around the edges(right around 93'c), add the acid. In my case, I'll use drops of a lemon.
Once fully mixed, let the temperature of the mixture rise to 127'c.

Step 3.
Keep the temperature in the 127 to 135'c.(as a cooler temperature won't completely convert the sugar, and a hotter temperature will cause the color to darken too quickly.) To keep the temperature in this range, use a thermometer and a cup of ice water. Scrape off the sugar that begins to stick to the sides of the pot to make sure all the sugar changes.

After 15 mins in the 127 to 135'c, you should have clear Belgian candi sugar. I'll put it into the wort on schedule.
If you want more colored one, see next.

Step 4.
To darken the candi sugar, you just need to continue to maintain a temperature between 127 to 135.

extra 15 to 20 mins for a light color.
extra 40 to 45 mins for an amber color.
extra 85 to 100 mins for a dark color.

If you want it to harden then store them for next time, see below.
link

Some people said there is no need for Belgian candi sugar to brew a proper saison, all you need is just adding some table sugar which should be a perfect substitute for candi sugar. But making the candi sugar has more fun. Enjoy!

Brewing single Mosaic pale ale with the most humble tools

Today I'm gonna brew a single Mosaic hop pale ale.

First step, measuring malts. 

싱글 모자익홉 페일에일을 만들거예요.

우선 몰트 양을 잽니다.

Put all malts in a steeping bag, leave it at 65 degrees celsius for 60mins. 

곡물백에 넣어 65도에서 60분간 당을 우려낼 것입니다.

Since I don't have a mash tun, put DME to the wort to add required sugar. 

통이 없어 제대로 된 (완전곡물)매쉬를 할수 없기 때문에 몰트추출물로 보당해줍니다.

In the mean time, prepare water bottles in a fridge. 

I use them to cool down the wort later.

그동안 냉장고에 차가운 물을 준비해두세요. (전날 준비하면 더 좋음)

워트를 칠링할때 쓸 것입니다.

When the wort starts to boil, measure the wanted grams of hops. 

For rich aroma, I'll put a majority of hops nearly at the end of boiling. (@60, @10, @5)

No dry hopping at this time. People said Mosaic is not suitable for dry hopping. 

워트가 끓기 시작하면 홉을 계량해 투입할 준비를 합니다.

아로마를 살리기 위해 대부분의 홉을 보일링 끝나기 직전에 넣을 거예요.

모자익 홉이 드라이호핑하면 비린내가 날수 있다고 해서 오늘은 안합니다.

Put hops into the wort depend on the hopping schedule. 

스케줄에 따라 홉을 넣습니다.

No time to rest. Prepare sanitizing water.

I usually use one tablespoon of the no-rinse sanitizer for 4 liters. 

그 사이 장비를 소독할 것입니다.

Drop every tool we need later.

필요한 모든 장비를.

Like air lock pieces.

에어록이라든지

Like a whisk. I use it for aeration.

에어레이션 할때 좋은 거품기도요.

Don't forget to sanitize a fermentation bucket and its lid.

가장 중요하게는 발효통과 뚜껑을 소독해줍니다.

This clarifying agent will help you get clearer beer.

Put it into boiling wort(one gram for 9 liters batch) 15mins before the end of boiling.

이 청징제는 생맥주 안의 불필요한 찌꺼기를 최대한 침전시켜 맥주를 맑게 해줄 거예요. 보일링 종료 15분 전에 넣어줍니다.

This is the toughest part for who don't have a wort chiller. 

I prepare a big bucket and lots of ice packs to cool down the wort. Boiling the wort less than the designed batch and add cool water. It helps you chill the wort a little bit easier.

워트 칠러가 없는 저 같은 거지 홈브루어에게 가장 힘든 단계입니다.

큰 대야에 발효통을 통째로 넣고 찬물과 아이스팩을 넣어 식히고 있습니다.

혹은 원래 배치보다 적은 리터수로 보일링한 다음에 아주 차가운 물과 섞어도 온도를 빨리 떨어뜨리는데 도움이 됩니다.

Move the whisk vigorously! To give a fresh oxygen to yeasts.

I forgot to take a picture, but don't miss measuring the original gravity(OG) before pitching yeasts if you want to calculate the alcohol per voulme(ABV) in advance. 

거품기로 워트에 산소를 충분히 넣어줍니다.

사진 찍는걸 깜박했는데 이 단계에서 초기비중 재는거 잊지 마세요.

This is the actual brewer who makes beer, not me.

이제 진짜 맥주 만들기는 이 녀석에게 맡겨야겠지요.

Brewing day! (for competition)

Total weight of malt bill is 400g. I was searching some helpful website to decide a proportions of each malts. Some special malts have lower enzyme power, their proportion needed to be limited. 

All about grains 101 : here

Briess Malt & Ingredient Company. : here

Vienna Malt as a base 240g

Caramel 90L for amber color and body 60g

Carapils for foam sustainability and body 60g

Munich 10L for color and malt profile 40g 

I choose 4 different kinds of hops, exciting!

Chinook for bittering 14g

Chinook again for taste 14g

Cascade for taste 7g

Cascade for aroma 21g

Amarillo for aroma 28g

Lastly, Chinook for aroma 28g (flame-out!)

Hope this ale to be dominated by Chinook character. 

Pilsen light DME was used to support sugars.

and pitched Mangrove Jack's CS M36 Liberty Bell Ale Yeast. (go yeast, go!)

Put hops into a hop bag... 

Looks lovely. If I can get a chance to visit a hop farm, I'll never miss it.

4th homebrew batch : Rye IPA

Today I tried to do a partial mash with mashing process. I had practiced a partial mash without mashing, just steeping some specialty malts a couple of times, so this should be my first time to do a real partial mash brewing. 

I need three pots : one for mashing, one for boiling water(for sparging) and another for warming an extract can as usual.

Rye malts-as base malt-is being mashed in a grain bag. 30mins in 50~55 degrees Celsius. 60mins in 60~65 degrees Celsius. I spill grams of malts out of the bag out of mistake.

Using a strainer for sparging. Homebrewing needs lots of kitchen tools. And another mistake I did : forgot to boil the wort up to 78 degrees Celsius before sparging, just add sparging water in that temperature. 

Start to boil the wort, steeping hops in a hop bag in the schedule. This time I won't forget to stir the wort like a crazy person after adding LME. No burnt taste, no more. 

The smell is really good, relaxing me all the time.

Prepare to chill the wort. 

A whole process took about 4 hours, time was reaching at midnight and I was tired as hell. In result, I added water one liter more than the 9L recipe which made OG lower(1.046, originally it should be 1.053). 

Homebrewer needs enough stamina too... 

The 3rd batch : Canuck Brown ale

What I've done today is doing my 3rd homebrew work. It's going to be a Canuck Brown ale. Canuck means Canadian. 

After a couple of practices, partial mash(special malts) and malt extracts work is pretty familiar for me now. However, it is likely that a new mistake happens every time. 

One thing was improved from beforehand. I didn't forget to warm up the extract can at this time, so then those sticky extracts can easily get out. 

Lesson number one. Need a extra care when you put hop pellets into the boiling wort. I was close to make the boiling pot and the grill messy. I lost some gram of my precious bittering hops. 

Lesson number two. When you put a melting LME into the boiling pot, don't forget to swirl the wort, if not LME go down to the bottom of the pot and get burnt. If it's hard to control by yourself, get another person to help. When I empty the pot, I found LME got burnt. In result, I can sense a burnt taste from the young beer. Silly me. Lose big point. 

Lesson number three(final). When you pitch a dry yeast packaged in a pouch, make sure to empty it clearly until the last piece of yeast. I don't want to waste of yeast, so I put the last drop of yeast through a hole for air-locking. I'm not sure it possibly could contaminate the wort, but I did as I thought right. It's a practice anyway. 

OG was 1.052. It's not bad based on the recipe which said OG would be 1.050. 

Please the god of yeast, give me at least drinkable beer. 

* Look at my chilling system - the simplest in the world! 

The 2nd batch : Robust porter

Happy the next day of the Christmas. Today is the day for my 2nd batch. I gave a name for it as 'Bush de noel', because it's going to be a robust porter(Partial mash with extracts.) and I'm gonna make it on the next day of the holiday. 

Here's a recipe.

Briess Porter LME(1.5kg)

Briess sparking amber DME(250g)

Briess Black malt(100g) This is a special malt to steep. 

East Kent Golding(28g for 60mins, 14g for 10mins)

and Safale s-04 dry yeast. 

Sanitize every equipment with a no rinse sanitizer.
Boiling water in a small pot to sanitize a boiling bag.
Prepare a 5 liters big pot, boiling water until it reaches the point of 65~70 degrees(Celsius). Steeping special malts in the boiling bag for 30 minutes. Steeping process is faster than I thought to be. Water is dark now. Heating for five minutes, the temperature increases for five degrees with my home stove.
Boiling water again up to 100 degrees, put hops according to a hopping schedule. Smell hop pellets, it smells fresh, delicious and has its characteristic odor. I think it's not the first time to smell like this but fail to compare the right one.
Add LME and DME. Forget to warm up the container of LME. It really takes a time to scrape out completely. Steam of boiling water wastes a small amount of DME. It's sticky.
Stir the wort with a silicon spatula. The end tip of the spatula was melted a little. (My bad, mom)
Chill the wort. Mineral water bottles put in a fridge an hour ago is not cool enough. (Let them stay in a fridge a day next time.) Move a fermenter bucket into another large bucket, add more cool water and four of ice packs. An hour later, the temperature dropped from 30 degrees to 22 degrees.
Check OG. It doesn't differ with the recipe that much. Good!
Taste a young beer. It really bitter and smell sugary because of LME. Stir the wort severely with a whisk like a crazy person. What's next? Pitching the yeast. It is time to show some fermentation magic. God of yeasts, please give me a beer with a thick head this time. 

The 1st day of the 1st batch

Wash a bucket fermenter with a detergent. Sanitize every equipment into the water with no-rinse sanitizer.
Put an extract can into hot water, and boil 2 liters of water.
I prepare the Canadian IPA extract can(1.7kg) and Pilson light DME(1kg). The bucket fermenter I have is 20 liters big. I plan to brew total 14 liters.
Put boiled water and 700g of DME into the bucket. Add the extract.
Prepare bottles of mineral water in room condition and bottles prepared in a fridge. Add water so that the total can be 14 liters. Start to put some air into the wort for 10 mins. OG is 1.055.
Pitch a dry yeast attached to the extract can into the bucket. Put a cover on, set an air lock. Room temperature at the time is 22.